![]() ![]() I am guessing that the chemicals are gassing beneath the surface. I am trying to find a way to clear coat artificial patina without creating bubbles in the clear coat. the project that I'm working on is Rusted Iron Gates and handrails and its all exposed outside to the weather. I know that you could use linseed oil and maintain it every year. If any one knows of a clear surface film finish that could be used over rusted metal I'd really like some feed back on this. Also be aware that the texture is different than with the acid. That seems to work fairly well and quickly. I suggest you experiment a little with vinegar. It is my belief that the acid causes the rust to happen too fast. I have been using the same approach to accelerate rust and have been experiencing the rust peel you describe. I think that you can use proprietary polyurethane paint or spray. We are expanding our signage to include etched and distressed metals and need a durable clear for exterior use.Ī. Like Ken and Ed I am interested in an exterior clear coat that will work on rusted metal. Many times I want to keep the rusty look. In my case it is for steel sculpture, as I do fairly large pieces for indoor and outdoor use. I have the same interest as Ed in clear coating over a rusted surface. Sheet metal subcontractor - Blue Springs, Missouri Thank you for any assistance you can offer. Now that the metal is in place some of the finish is coming off and taking the rust with it (rusted look was the desire) Is there a product that we can put over the lacquer that will stand up to abuse (prefer clear coat) or do we have to take off the lacquer before we can put anything else on it. We then applied a semi-gloss lacquer (3 coats / interior application) using a "Deft" product. I have a 20 gauge cold rolled steel that has been cleaned (w/soap & water) and then we applied a solution of water/acid to speed up the rusting process. I am a PM and have project with a situation and was looking for any information I could find on clear coat. ![]() This makes the urethane much easier to strip, when it comes time to repair/maintain the patina and substrate.Ĭontact me if you would like more information. I would usually recommend an acrylic base coat followed by a urethane. ![]() A PowellĪ good polyurethane should do the trick. My question is if anyone knows of a product that won't leave the metal looking dark/wet? I would love to keep the soft/dry color if possible. I have seen some projects using several different products but in the end they all look dark/wet. I see many post about a 2 part automotive to seal and prevent additional rust. plus they help make this page possible :-) They have a great web page detailing the issue of protecting rusted finishes → Please consider Everbrite, which is available in matte. Some are available in satin/matte finishes, which limits the shine, but all coatings will make the metal somewhat more shiny for the simple reason that you presently have a rough etched finish, and whatever you coat it with will be smoother and thus will not scatter the reflection as much. There are many brand names of clear coats, and we don't really like to focus on them ( huh? why?). We'll see if Steve's e-mail address still works and if he responds. Does Penetrol need to be reapplied and will it make the tin very shiny? I appreciate any feedback or suggestions.Ī. You have mentioned Penetrol, have you used Ever Clear? I heard this works well. I have achieved the look I want and want to seal the panels without making them shiny. The garage will be temp controlled and insulated. I am finishing my garage and am using new corrugated tin that I have rusted myself using acid and peroxide like wainscoting from floor to about 3 feet up. I sprayed with Rustoleum clear coat to stop rust and after about 2 months, they all have a milky white film on them. I purchased metal outdoor chairs and noticed some spots of rust on them. I'm wondering if anyone has tried a water based poly as a second coat instead of the oil based clear? My fear is that it won't adhere to the Penetrol.Īny help would be welcomed. After that, I spray with a oil based clear satin. Brush on one coat of Penetrol, thinned a bit with varsol and a bit of added Japan drier. I have used this information to create my finish on both bare metal (hot rolled) and rusted train track. ![]()
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